How to Set Up a Terrarium for Terrestrial Species

Terrestrial reptiles and amphibians spend most (or all) of their time on the ground. Unlike arboreal species, they prioritise floor space, hiding places, and the right substrate, over height. Many terrestrial animals also burrow, bask, and explore along the enclosure floor, so a successful setup must focus on security, stable temperatures, correct humidity, and an appropriate thermal gradient.

This guide takes you through everything you need to know to plan, build, and maintain a terrestrial terrarium, whether you are preparing for a frog, toad, gecko, skink, or another ground-dwelling species.

Understanding Terrestrial Needs

Terrestrial animals typically:

• Move horizontally more than vertically
• Spend time under cover (hides, leaf litter, logs, plants)
• Thermoregulate using warm and cool zones
• Often dig, burrow, or partially bury themselves
• Rely on stable humidity and access to clean water

A good terrestrial terrarium prioritises:

• Floor space
• A reliable heat gradient
• Correct substrate depth and texture
• Hiding and visual barriers
• Easy cleaning and long-term maintenance

Choosing the Right Enclosure

Size and Footprint

For terrestrial species, the footprint matters most.

• Choose the largest enclosure you can reasonably maintain.
• A good general minimum for many small-to-medium terrestrial species is 60 × 45 × 45 cm, though requirements vary.
• Larger and more active species may need 90 cm+ in length.

As a rule, aim for:

• Enough length to create a clear warm end and cool end
• Enough depth (front-to-back) to allow natural movement and furnishing
• Enough height for substrate depth and decor, even if climbing is limited

Materials

• Glass terrariums: excellent visibility; can lose heat more readily in colder rooms.
• PVC or wooden vivariums: hold heat well; ideal for species needing stable warmth.
• Plastic tubs: useful for quarantine and temporary housing, but not ideal long-term display enclosures.

Ventilation

• Terrestrial setups still need fresh airflow.
• Poor ventilation increases the risk of stagnant air, mould, and respiratory problems.
• Balance ventilation with humidity needs: higher ventilation reduces humidity, so moisture-loving species may need substrate and misting adjustments.

Security

Many terrestrial species are surprisingly strong or determined.

• Use a secure lid or sliding doors with a proper lock.
• Ensure cable holes and vents cannot be used as escape routes.

Planning Your Layout

Before adding substrate, plan the terrarium’s structure:

• Decide where the warm end will be (heat source placement matters).
• Leave enough space for a large hide and water bowl.
• Create visual barriers so the animal can move without feeling exposed.

Terrestrial animals are often prey species in the wild. Feeling secure is a major factor in stress reduction, feeding response, and overall health.

Substrate: The Foundation of the Setup

Substrate is one of the most important choices you will make. It affects:

• Humidity
• Burrowing behaviour
• Hygiene
• Foot health
• Risk of impaction

Substrate Depth

Most terrestrial animals benefit from enough depth to dig:

• Light burrowers: 5–8 cm
• Strong burrowers: 10–20 cm (species dependent)

Common Substrate Options

For Moderate Humidity / General Terrestrial Species

• Coconut fibre
• Organic topsoil (fertiliser-free)
• Soil/sand blends (species-specific)
• Reptile-safe soil mixes

For Humid, Moisture-Loving Terrestrial Species (Many Frogs and Toads)

• Coconut fibre mixed with sphagnum moss
• Soil with leaf litter and bark
• Bioactive substrate blends designed for tropical setups

For Arid Terrestrial Species (Some Lizards and Geckos)

• Specialist arid substrates (clay/sand mixes designed for vivariums)
• Compacted soil blends for burrowing

Substrates to Avoid

• Calci-sand (can cause impaction and irritation)
• Wood shavings (especially pine/cedar due to oils)
• Sharp or dusty sand
• Gravel (unsafe and not naturalistic for most species)

Drainage (When Needed)

Terrestrial enclosures do not always require drainage layers, but they help if:

• Humidity is high
• You are heavily misting
• The terrarium is bioactive and planted

If you add a drainage layer:

• Use clay balls or gravel (3–5 cm)
• Add mesh to separate soil from the drainage layer
• Avoid letting the substrate become waterlogged

Hides, Cover, and Visual Barriers

Terrestrial species require hiding opportunities to feel safe.

Hides

Provide at least two:

• One on the warm end
• One on the cool end

A hide should be:

• Snug enough to feel secure
• Large enough to fit the animal comfortably
• Easy to clean

Additional Cover

• Cork bark flats
• Leaf litter
• Live or artificial plants
• Branches and logs (even for terrestrial animals, low climbing and anchoring is enriching)

Moist Hide (Species-Dependent)

Some reptiles benefit from a humid hide to support shedding. Many amphibians benefit from consistently damp retreats.

Water Provision

Water Bowl

• Provide a stable, shallow water bowl suitable for the species.
• Amphibians often soak; many reptiles drink occasionally but still need access.
• Replace water daily.

Dechlorination

If you are keeping amphibians, always use dechlorinated water. Chlorine and chloramine can irritate sensitive skin.

Temperature: Creating a Heat Gradient

A terrestrial terrarium should never be one uniform temperature.

The Goal

• Warm end: for basking and digestion
• Cool end: for retreat and thermoregulation

Heating Options

Heat Lamps

• Create natural basking areas and surface warmth.
• Must be controlled with a thermostat where appropriate and monitored carefully.

Ceramic Heat Emitters

• Provide heat without light.
• Useful for night-time warmth.

Deep Heat Projectors

• Provide more “sun-like” radiant warmth.
• Often preferred for reptiles that bask.

Heat Mats

• Use externally under or on the side of the enclosure.
• Best for gentle background warmth, not primary basking for most species.
• Must be thermostat-controlled.

Thermostats and Monitoring

• Always use thermostats for heat sources.
• Use at least two digital thermometers (warm end and cool end).
• An infrared thermometer is helpful for checking surface temperatures.

Humidity: Getting It Right

Humidity needs differ massively between species, but the principles are consistent.

Humidity Control Methods

• Substrate choice and depth
• Misting (light, controlled, not constant soaking)
• Partial covering of ventilation (carefully, without blocking airflow)
• Live plants and leaf litter
• Water bowl placement

Avoiding Common Humidity Problems

• Too wet: leads to mould, bacteria, skin issues, and respiratory illness.
• Too dry: causes dehydration, shedding problems (in reptiles), and skin stress.

Aim for stable humidity that matches the species rather than chasing a constant high percentage.

Lighting and UVB

Day–Night Cycle

Even nocturnal species benefit from a consistent day–night rhythm.

• Provide a 12-hour cycle (adjust seasonally if desired).

UVB

Whether you need UVB depends on the animal:

• Many reptiles benefit strongly from appropriate UVB.
• Many amphibians can benefit from low-level UVB, though they are more sensitive to excessive exposure.

If using UVB:

• Choose the correct strength for the species.
• Provide shaded areas so the animal can self-regulate.
• Replace bulbs according to manufacturer guidance.

Plant Lighting (Optional)

If keeping live plants, use an LED grow light suitable for terrarium use.

Furnishings and Enrichment

Terrestrial does not mean “empty box”.

Good enrichment includes:

• Leaf litter (excellent for amphibians, invertebrates, and bioactive setups)
• Low branches and logs
• Multiple hides and varied textures
• Rearranging decor occasionally (gently) to stimulate exploration
• A bioactive cleanup crew for planted ecosystems (optional)

Enrichment supports natural behaviours and reduces stress.

Bioactive vs Traditional Terrestrial Setups

Traditional (Non-Bioactive)

Pros:

• Easier to set up
• Easier to deep-clean
• Often cheaper upfront

Cons:

• Requires more frequent substrate changes
• Less naturalistic
• Limited plant life unless potted

Bioactive

Pros:

• Natural waste processing (springtails/isopods)
• Better humidity stability
• Naturalistic appearance and behaviour

Cons:

• Requires planning and time to establish
• Not a “no-maintenance” option
• Needs correct balance of moisture, plants, and cleanup crew

Bioactive systems can be excellent for many terrestrial amphibians and some reptiles, but they are not essential.

Cycling and Settling the Terrarium

Before introducing an animal:

• Run heating and lighting for several days (ideally 1–2 weeks).
• Check temperature gradients at different times of day.
• Monitor humidity patterns after misting and during drying.
• Ensure everything is stable and predictable.

This prevents stressful surprises and helps you identify issues early.

Introducing Your Animal

When you bring the animal home:

• Keep handling minimal.
• Provide quiet, low-traffic conditions.
• Offer food after a settling period (species dependent).
• Observe carefully for normal behaviour, appetite, and waste.

Stress is one of the most common causes of early problems in new setups.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Daily

• Check temperatures and humidity
• Replace water
• Remove visible waste
• Ensure the animal looks alert and normal

Weekly

• Spot-clean substrate and decor
• Clean the water bowl thoroughly
• Wipe down glass if needed

Monthly (or as Needed)

• Deep-clean non-bioactive setups
• Replace substrate partially or fully (depending on species and cleanliness)
• Inspect heating and lighting equipment

Bioactive setups require different maintenance: pruning plants, monitoring cleanup crew, and controlling moisture to prevent mould.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using the wrong substrate (too dry, too dusty, or unsafe if swallowed)
• No heat gradient (one temperature throughout)
• Too few hides (animal feels exposed and stressed)
• Over-misting and waterlogged substrate
• No thermostat on heat sources
• Overhandling (especially amphibians)
• Setting up and adding the animal immediately without testing conditions

Conclusion

A well-designed terrestrial terrarium balances space, security, substrate, heat gradients, and stable humidity. When these basics are correct, terrestrial species become more confident, feed reliably, and display natural behaviours, from burrowing and basking to exploring and hunting.

By planning the enclosure carefully, choosing appropriate substrate and furnishings, and monitoring conditions consistently, you can create a safe, enriching home where your terrestrial animal does not just survive, but thrives.