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Exotic
Explore expert articles on exotic pets with Vet Verified.
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How to Safely Introduce a Clean-Up Crew to an Occupied Terrarium
A clean-up crew in a bioactive terrarium uses springtails and isopods to break down waste, control mould and keep the substrate healthy. This guide shows how to introduce a clean-up crew to an occupied terrarium safely. Choose springtails first and suitable isopods for your enclosure size and humidity. Make sure temperature and humidity are steady, no chemicals are present, and substrate is moist but not waterlogged. Reduce risk by feeding animals before introduction, giving hides, and avoiding times of shedding or illness. Add springtails to moist leaf litter and mist lightly. Add isopods at low-activity times, under leaf litter and in small batches. Feed the crew with leaf litter, cuttlebone and occasional vegetable matter, but do not overfeed. Monitor for less mould, cleaner substrate and normal animal behaviour, and watch for warning signs like stress, strong odours or die-off. Do not use wild-caught insects, too many invertebrates at once or sterile substrates. When done carefully, a clean-up crew can make a bioactive terrarium more stable and easier to maintain.
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How to Set Up a Paludarium for Aquatic Species
This paludarium guide explains simple steps for paludarium setup and paludarium care for aquatic and semi-aquatic species. Choose the right enclosure size and material, and make sure seals and ventilation suit high humidity. Set the correct water to land ratio for your animals, for example 70% water/30% land for mostly aquatic species or 50/50 for amphibians. Use strong filtration, cycle the water for 4 to 6 weeks, and test water regularly to keep ammonia and nitrite at zero. Keep tropical water between 22 and 28°C and humidity around 70 to 90 percent, and provide suitable lighting and UVB where needed. Plant with Anubias, Java fern, bromeliads and mosses to help humidity and water quality. Do daily checks, weekly tests and monthly partial water changes, and avoid common mistakes like skipping the cycle, overstocking, poor filtration, unsafe materials and stagnant water. Follow these steps to create a stable, natural paludarium that supports healthy animal behaviour and long term care.
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How to Set Up a Terrarium for Burrowing Species
Burrowing terrarium guide for burrowing species like burrowing frogs, desert tortoises, burrowing reptiles and some snakes. Choose a low, long enclosure with a deep, diggable substrate layer (10–15 cm for small species, 20–30 cm or deeper for larger burrowers). Use coconut fibre, coco coir, topsoil, sphagnum moss or excavator clay and add a drainage layer for high humidity or bioactive setups. Provide gentle ventilation, a thermal gradient with heat mats or ceramic heaters, and two thermometers to check warm and cool zones. Keep humidity at species-appropriate levels (tropical 60–80%, desert 20–40%) with misting, live plants and a shallow water dish. Add hides, logs and buried food for enrichment and use low UVB for some reptiles while avoiding strong light for most amphibians. Do daily spot checks, weekly cleaning and monthly deep cleaning, and make sure substrate depth, temperature and humidity suit the species to avoid common problems like impaction, mould or overheating.
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An Owner’s Guide to Keeping the Fantasy Horned Frog
Fantasy horned frog care and facts. The fantasy horned frog is a captive-bred hybrid, usually a cross between Ceratophrys cranwelli and C. cornuta. Adults reach about 10–15 cm and can live 8–12 years with proper care. They are heavy, terrestrial ambush predators that spend much time buried in damp substrate and strike quickly at prey. Use a glass terrarium, deep moisture-retaining substrate (8–12 cm), minimal decor and a humid 60–80% environment. Keep temperatures around 24–28°C by day and 20–22°C at night. Feed large insects and earthworms, size no bigger than the frog’s mouth; juveniles eat every 2–3 days, adults every 4–7 days. Avoid frequent handling, watch for obesity, impaction and infections, and keep hygiene and feeding habits correct. Breeding is best left to experienced keepers and hybrids must never be released into the wild. Buy captive-bred animals from reputable breeders and label hybrids clearly.
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The Complete Guide to Keeping Mexican Red Knee Tarantulas
Mexican Red Knee Tarantula (Brachypelma hamorii) is a calm, colourful New World tarantula popular with beginners. Basic tarantula care: a shallow, well ventilated terrestrial enclosure with floor space 2–3 times the leg span (adult minimum about 30 x 30 x 30 cm), 8–12 cm of coco fibre or chemical-free soil, a hide and a shallow water dish. Keep temperature around 22–26°C and humidity about 60–70% with good ventilation. Feed suitable prey (crickets, locusts, dubia roaches) on a schedule: spiderlings every 3–5 days, juveniles once or twice weekly, adults every 7–10 days, and remove uneaten food. Handling is not recommended; they can flick urticating hairs and can be injured by falls. Females live 20–30 years and males 5–7 years. They are solitary and must be kept alone. Mexican Red Knees are covered by CITES, so buy captive-bred animals from reputable sellers and keep any required paperwork.
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How to Set Up a Terrarium for Arboreal Species
Arboreal terrarium setup for arboreal reptiles and amphibians like frogs, geckos and anoles. Use a tall, vertical glass or PVC enclosure with good front and top ventilation and plenty of branches, vines and textured backgrounds for climbing and hiding. Create a drainage layer and use moisture-retentive substrates such as coconut fibre, orchid bark and leaf litter, add live plants for cover and humidity, and mist daily or use an automatic mister. Provide warm upper zones and cooler lower zones, shallow water dishes, low-level UVB and safe heat sources, and consider a bioactive setup with springtails and isopods for natural waste breakdown. Check temperature and humidity daily, clean and trim plants regularly, avoid short tanks, overcrowding and unsafe treated wood, and only add animals once the terrarium is fully stable.
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Brown Basilisk: The Water-Running Dragon of Central America
Brown Basilisk (Basiliscus vittatus), the "Jesus lizard", is a fast, water-loving reptile best suited to experienced keepers. Native to Mexico and Central America, it needs a large, tall tropical vivarium with a deep pool, lots of climbing branches and strong UVB light. Housing for one adult should be about 180 x 90 x 180 cm. Temperatures: basking 32–35°C, daytime 26–29°C, cool 24–25°C and night 22–24°C. Keep humidity at 60–80% with daily misting and good ventilation. Diet is omnivorous: insects and protein items with leafy greens, squash and occasional fruit; use calcium and multivitamin supplements to avoid metabolic bone disease. Handle very little because they stress easily and may drop their tail. Lifespan in captivity is 8–12 years and breeding needs space and experience. This guide covers key care points for Brown Basilisk housing, heating, lighting, water, diet, handling and health.
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Setting Up an Environment for Semi-Aquatic Juvenile Amphibians: A Complete Guide
This guide shows how to set up a safe home for semi-aquatic juvenile amphibians like newts, salamanders and some frogs. Use a low, wide tank: about 30 litre for a few juveniles and 60 litre or larger for groups. Aim for a roughly 50:50 land and water split, with water 4–8 cm deep and easy ramps or cork bark for access. Keep water clean with a gentle sponge or low-flow filter and change 25–50% twice weekly. Use dechlorinated water and remove uneaten food. Keep daytime temperatures about 20–24°C for temperate species, up to 26°C for tropicals, and humidity at 70–90% with regular misting. Feed small live prey daily or every other day, dust with calcium twice weekly and give multivitamin every 1–2 weeks. Spot clean land daily and replace substrate every few weeks. Avoid stagnant water, strong currents, poor land access and oversized prey. This setup helps juveniles grow healthy and show natural behaviour.
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The Complete Guide to Keeping Dwarf White Isopods
Dwarf White Isopods (Trichorhina tomentosa) are small soil-dwelling crustaceans known for their role in bioactive enclosures. Originally from tropical regions, they help maintain ecosystems by decomposing organic matter. They thrive in warm, humid environments and reproduce rapidly, making them a practical addition to reptile, amphibian, and invertebrate habitats. These isopods prefer burrowing and require specific substrate conditions, such as a mix of coco fibre, decaying leaves, and sphagnum moss. Ideal temperatures range from 20–26°C with 70–90% humidity. Their diet includes decaying leaves and wood, with additional calcium sources like eggshells. Often part of bioactive setups, they aid in waste breakdown without troubling other tank mates. Easy to breed and care for, they are perfect for creating a self-sustaining enclosure.
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Blue-Headed Anole: The Sapphire Jewel of the Caribbean
The blue-headed anole (Anolis allisoni) is a colourful lizard, native to Cuba and parts of the Caribbean. Known for its turquoise-blue head and green body, it prefers warm, humid environments. These lizards are mainly arboreal, spending time in trees. Males are territorial, using their vivid colours for displays. Blue-headed anoles require captive care with vertical, plant-filled enclosures, suitable temperatures and humidity, and proper lighting. They mainly eat insects, needing a varied diet with supplements. Best for experienced keepers, these lizards are admired through observation, not frequent handling. With care, they can live 5-8 years and are engaging with their active, expressive behaviour.
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A Comprehensive Guide to Keeping the White-Lipped Tree Frog
The white-lipped tree frog (Litoria infrafrenata) is the largest tree frog species and a popular pet due to its bright green colour, calm nature, and golden eyes. Native to Australia and New Guinea, these frogs need a spacious enclosure with high humidity, climbing options, and appropriate temperatures. They thrive on a diet of various insects, supplemented with calcium and vitamins. Minimal handling is advised, as their skin is sensitive. While they can live up to 20 years, proper care is crucial to prevent health issues like obesity and bone disease. Responsible breeding in captivity helps decrease pressure on wild populations.
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The Complete Guide to Keeping Black Emilia Tarantulas
The Black Emilia Tarantula (Tliltocatl vagans) is a hardy and striking black tarantula from Central America. It is popular with both intermediate keepers and beginners due to its simple care needs, bold feeding habits, and resilience. This species is a medium-to-large ground-dwelling tarantula with a preference for dry conditions and burrowing. It requires good ventilation, secure enclosures, and appropriate substrate. It feeds on crickets, locusts, and other insects, with feeding frequency varying by age. While generally calm, it can be defensive and should not be handled unnecessarily. Black Emilias are solitary and should be housed alone. Proper care and conditions can lead to a long and healthy life for this intriguing species.
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